Method of making and premolding heel and quarter sections of boots and shoes



Jan. 23, 1940.

D N A s LE E0 www .L AGD NN. DIA D 8 ...www M01 LEO anni WDW... TN RAMM Mm? ITe Emmn MSF BFR 0E T DR 0A HU TQ E M Patented Jan. .23, 1940 u PATENT OFFICE METHOD OF MAKING AND PREMOIDNG HEEL AND QUARTER SECTIONS BOOTS AND SHOES Benjamin F. Hartwell, -Leslie In Hartwell, 1r`., and Arthur F. Hartwell, Bellows Falls, Vt.

Application June 1, 1938, Serial No. 21l,146

achim. (ci. 1244s) Our present invention is directed to simplify the preparation of bootsan'd shoes, particularly the heel and quarter sections, of our prior and copending application Ser. No. 146,217, filed 'une s 3, 1937 now Patent No; 2,170,599, dated August 22, 1939; and is an improvementA of our invention on process of making boots and shoes by premolding certain parts of same as described in our copending application Ser. No. 104,196, led Oct.

l0 6, 1936, and Ser. No. 137,708, iiled April 19, 1937. As explained in -our said prior application 146,217, we prepare-a series or set of heel and quarter blanks while fiat, folding the edge portion of the upper material over the edge of the ll intermediate `layer or stiifening material to give f a finished folded edge, and thereupon uniting the same also while flat by suitable pressure and adhesive with the lining layer, subsequently stitch. ing and trimming the surplus lining. and then I premolding the entire series of united blanks into finished form with a lasted flange on the bottom latter over thesti'ilening layer and then uniting?l the lining. y n Byour present simplified process'we cut'the blank of the outer finished leather and then fold its edge upon itself, .uniting the same with adfi hesive; and in this form we prepare the intermediate stitlening layer of substantially less area but similar contour along the top portion tothat of the outside or finishing upper material, approximately to iit the stiifening layer Just under the folded edge. Thereuponthe lining is applied and -all three layers are united by adhesive, and vthereafter the stitching is put in, the lining trimmed, all while fiat, and the-three-layered blank premolded. 4

This present invention lsaves considerable handling, work, and some material-on the'intermediate stlifening layer while facilitating the premolding operation. l Referring tothe drawing illustrating a preferred embodiment of the invention, n Fig. 1 is avian view partly in cross-section;

L Hg. 3 is -a longitudinal-cross-sectional view;

` l'ig. 3. illustrates the process of applying the sti l g and trimming the surplusllning material, with apart of samebrokenaway;

55 liigAisaperspectiveview ofthe flnishedand the stitching the surplus material I2 of the liningapplication 146,217, it was first necessary premolded heel and quarter portion of a shoe a smaller'scale, and i Fig. 5 is a cross-sectional view on the same scale as Figs. 1, 2, and 3.

Referring to the drawing, I designates the cu 5 or dried-out blank of outer or finishing material for the shoe upper. 2 indicates the intermediate stiffening layer having a bevelled edge '3 also cut or died out of similar contour to that of the blank I but of less area to permit the folding of l0 the edge portion of the blank I around the top into the nished and folded edge 5. The lining I is of slightly greater area, and after the upper I has been subjected to the folding operation these three layers are then united by adhesive, al1 while l5 I flat, and preferably by coating each surface of the inner orstiifening material with adhesive or by coating the contacting faces of the folded upper or lining, or both, and thereupon assembling the same in alignment with the top surface of 20 the stiffening layer substantially registering with the inner folded edge S of the upper and with the lining overlapping the same, notch marks 6 and I facilitating this operation, and the layers are then subjected to pressure until all are united. .85

'Thereupon 'as shown in Fig. 3, the stitching III .is applied around the marginal edge of the folded outer material I, as indicated at 5, and the lining l as best shown in Fig. 5. During the setting of is cut so that the triple layered blank is complete,

with the finished edge 5 formed as a. folded edge of the outer ilnishing'material alone, the stiftening layer 2 substantially registering with the inner edgel of the folded edge 5, as s hown; and

the three-layered blank then being subjected to the premolding operation in finished form and contour with the lasting ange I5 thereon, ready for.l attachment to the insole or assembly with the insole on a'last-to complete theshoe.

' In this form of our invention we have obtained the benet lof a folded edge by an extremely simple operation -of folding the upper material onto itself -without first assembling the stiii'ening layer and then subjecting the blank to the folding operation, thus greatly simplifying the han dling and a saving in expense.

As formerly made and described in our said coto' assemble the stiffening layer and outer finishing material, uniting them` with adhesive and pressure. and thereupon taking the two blanks thus formed to a folding machine for the folding operatio. i l

By our present improved and simplifiedv method the outer layer I is folded immediately after it is died or cut, and thereupon all three blanks are operated upon simultaneously in the adhesive coating and uniting operations, eliminating the delay, handling, and expense incident to uniting two layers and taking them to a separate machine operation, and then returning to the operation of uniting a third or lining blank.

Consequently, the saving by our present invention in handling, time, interruption of blankuniting processes by transporting and running thru a folding machine, together with the danger of damaging and marring the entire blank material, because the adhesive operation is extremely difficult without getting the adhesive on the outer and lining layers, are most important improvements in this particular art, and we Wish to claim the same herein broadly.

We claim:

The improved method of preparing heel and quarter blanks for use in premolding during the manufacture of boots and shoes, which consists in cutting out an outer finished layer from ilat sheet material folding the upper edge portion of same While at, thereupon preparing an intermediate stiffening layer of substantially less contour and area than that of the now folded edge layer to permit the stiiening layer to register while flat with the folded edge of the outer layer, preparing a lining layer of greater area than the edge folded layer, uniting said three layers by adhesive, and thereafter applying stitching around the folded edge from the outer layer to the lining, and cutting off the surplus edge portion of the lining and thereupon premolding the three layers of the blank into finished heel and quarter form with a lasting flange independently of assembling on a last. 

